4. Taping and Mudding the Drywall

Once all of the pieces of drywall have been installed it is time to mud and tape the joints. Mudding and Taping can also be performed by the homeowner however these tasks require some practice, patience and a little artistry. Start with the ceiling and work your way down to the floor. You can use fiberglass tape and if that is your choice apply it to all the joints, I prefer using paper tape as it gives a stronger joint and looks better if you sand too much. When using the paper tape, apply a small amount of joint compound over the joints and seams using your six-inch taping knife. Before the compound dries put the tape over it and then force the mud out from under the tape as much as possible as we want the tape as tight to the board as possible. Then cover the tape with another layer of joint compound. Continue this process as you go through the room. It is best to do all the butt joints first then the through tapes.

Now comes the inside corners. Apply a little mud to each side of the corner and the push the tape into the corner folding it so there is half on each surface. Then again push the tape as tight to the wall as possible getting most of the mud out from under it. For applying the tape like this it is best to have the mud a little runny.

Now we can do the outside corners. There are two different types of corners you can use. The metal ones you nail on or ones that have paper over the metal that you can put on with the mud. The thing to remember with both of them is to allow them to stay straight, so if you’re nailing only nail top middle and bottom if at all possible. Usually the corners are a little tricky and require a little more mud to fill them and work to get them good, so be patient when mudding them as you will be applying additional coats of mud to smooth out the imperfections on these corners later.

Tip: When applying the mud over the tape and screws, make sure all excess material and uneven patches are smoothed down with the blade. This will reduce sanding later. Also try putting more pressure on the outer edge of you knife to feather the edges and to leave more mud in the middle for fill.

Drywall installation is not a one-day project so now you need to let this first coat of compound dry overnight. Once it is dry, (sometimes in basements and in humid conditions it takes more then overnight to dry) it’s ready for the second coat of mud.

Applying the Second Coat of Mud

It is this coat that is considered the fill coat and it should hide the tape. Again, start with the ceiling and this time use your 12” taping knife for taping over the flat joints and the outside corners. Apply a generous amount of joint compound over the taped seams then, taking long strokes, smooth the joint compound out over the tape. Again as you do this apply more pressure to the side of the taping knife further away from the tape to help leave more mud over the tape and feather out the edges.

Now we can do the inside corners. An inside corner knife works really great, but they do involve a little finesse so again take your time. Apply a generous amount of joint compound and then run the corner knife down the corner starting from the top. Take long, even strokes. Then use your 6″ taping knife to help smooth and feather out the edges.

For the outside corners, using the 12” taping knife apply a generous amount of joint compound and bridge from the OSC to the wall full width of the knife so that it fills the corner. Again, apply more pressure to the blade side that is further away from the corner so that you feather out the edge.

After the seams and corners have all been completed, apply a second coat of mud over the screws. Wipe off as much mud as you can as you are just trying to fill the dimple.

Again after the second coat has been applied it needs to dry overnight or until it is dry, before you start the final coat of mud. Cleaning off the taping knife, and any other containers or tools that have mud on them is much easier right after you finish than trying to clean them the next day, and they will need to be cleaned of the old mud before they can be used again.

Applying the final Coat of Mud

You can apply the final coat of mud after the second coat of mud has thoroughly dried. With this coat you are simply applying a final skim coat of mud to smooth out the scratches and imperfections. This coat requires the most artistry and the least amount of joint compound.

To remove any bumps or ridges before you apply this skim coat use your taping knife and lightly scrap the mudded surfaces. With this coat it is basically the same as the last one other than you are applying less mud and trying to make it smooth rather than trying to fill.

Start again with the ceiling seams applying a small amount of joint compound using the broad taping knife. Continue to make the seam a little wider on each side of the tape with your 12 “ knife. Remember this is a skim coat so less mud is required. Then using the 6” knife and the corner knife do another go over of the inside corners. For the outside corners use the 12” taping knife and add just enough mud such that you can flare out the mudded surface area a little further, taking care to make the surface smooth and the edges feathered. After the seams have all been completed, apply a final coat of mud over the screws again taking it all off the surface and just filling the dimple.

Once the final coat has been applied let it rest overnight or until it is dry. This process should hide the tape effectively and make for a smooth looking wall or ceiling.

5. Sanding the Mud

The last step in the actual drywall installation process is to sand the mud. This is the messiest part of the project, and you should wear a mask when sanding. I actually use 3 different sanders. A pole sander works well when you are trying to reach the ceiling and the top of the walls. I use a hand sander for places you can reach and around bulkheads and places where it is not easy to use the pole sander. I also use a foam or sponge sander to get into the corners and where I want to be fussy. Sand all of the areas that have been taped, however concentrate sanding on the outer edges of the mudded areas. Your goal is to eliminate all scratches and ridges and have the mudded areas blend into the surface of the drywall. Once your mud is smooth and free from visible seams, you are done installing drywall. Once sanding is complete, carefully sweep and vacuum up the dust and you’re done. The fun can now begin as you get to dress up your project by priming and painting your room.

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Drywall installation is a fairly easy process. Installing drywall can be done by most do-it-yourselfers. Whether you choose to do it yourself completely or hire a professional for some of the steps along the way, understanding the process will help get the job done smoothly and more affordably.

1. Getting the Supplies you need

Any project starts with making sure you have all the necessary supplies.
The materials you will need
- The drywall board. You can use regular 1/2″ thick 4′×8′ sheets on ceiling and most walls though drywall does come in larger sheets, such as 4′x12′, however for a Do-it-Yourself homeowner these larger sheets can become unwieldy and maybe difficult to bring into your home. For bathrooms or other moist areas moisture resistant drywall should be used.
- The screws for installing the board 1 ¼” drywall screws work in most situations
- Tape for the joints this could be paper or fiberglass. I prefer paper and it is what all the professionals use.
- Outside corner bead obviously for the outside corners
- Joint compound sometimes called mud to apply the tape and level the walls. It comes in premixed pails or boxes for larger jobs.

Tip: Make sure you order enough of each item as it is a pain to have to go back when you find out in the middle of the project that you need a little more.

2. You will also need the right Tools

Installing drywall requires some tools that are specific to the job, which you may or may not already have but the job is always easier when using the right tools.
The tools you will need
- A drywall screw gun, if you are using screws, and I recommend you using screws.
- A hammer
- A utility or carpenter’s knife
- A drywall saw
- Tools for mudding and taping
– A 6” taping knife for applying the tape and feathering out the edges of the mud
– A 12” taping knife for filling and smoothing the joints
– A corner taping knife for doing inside corners as it makes this job a lot easier
– A mud tub to carry to mud in that you are working with
- Sanding tools
– A hand sander
– A pole sander for the walls and ceiling
– A foam sander for corners and touch ups

Optional
- A T-square to help cut the sheets square though you can just measure and use a straight edge.
- A drywall lift which can be rented, to help put sheets up on a ceiling though this job can usually be done by two people and a couple T supports instead of the lift.

Though this sounds like a lot of tools most are relatively inexpensive and the power tools can be rented if you can’t borrow them or you can’t afford to buy them.

3. Cutting and installing the Drywall board

Installing drywall can get quite messy so be sure to cover anything in the room that you don’t want to get dirty! Assuming the room is all ready for the drywall (all electrical, insulating and vapor barrier is done), you are now ready to begin installing the drywall board.

Safety is always first: Drywall installation is dirty, heavy work.
- Lift properly.
- Wear eye protection as the Gypsum in drywall can irritate the eyes.
- Wear a mask, to avoid breathing in the dust.

If you are installing drywall on the ceiling, do it first as this will allow the sheets on the walls to help hold the sheets on the ceiling. The drywall should be applied in a staggered pattern. This creates a tighter and stronger installation and also makes it easier to get a good job of the taping. Drywall should also be applied with the sheets hung perpendicular to the floor joists or studs and from the top down on the walls. Your goal should be to install drywall in such a way that there are as few joints as possible. The screws should be installed every 12 inches on each stud or joist and so that they are slightly recessed without breaking the paper. You may have to adjust your screw gun to give you this setting but the adjustment is easily done.

Drywall is easy to cut using a carpenter’s knife. Cut through the paper and into the core only, you don’t have to cut completely through the board. Once you have done this, the board will easily break where you cut it. Then simply cut the paper on the back side and you will have two pieces. For cuts that are irregular or curved and for cutting out for electrical outlets and any other holes prior to placing the drywall your should use a drywall saw. This will require you to carefully measure where these holes should be. Once your drywall has been cut, you are ready to install it.

Installing drywall begins with placing the board in place and then securing it with the screws. The sheets are heavy so it is usually best done with two or more people. For ceilings you can make a couple T support out of 1 x 4 by nailing a 2’ piece to the end of a piece that is cut so it goes from the floor to the ceiling to support the sheet after you have it in place so that you can apply the screws.

Tip: Don’t forget to mark your joist so you know where to screw before you get the drywall over your head and in place, and then go searching for them.

It is best to fasten the screws around the perimeter of the drywall first and then fill in the center afterwards. After the ceiling has been completed its time to move on to the walls. Again the rows should be staggered with a goal of as few joints as possible and from the top down. The bottom piece should end up about ½ inches from the sub-floor.

continued next post

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