2 Laying the Floor

Every manufacturer of laminate flooring provides very specific instructions on the proper method of installing their product. There are, however, some common rules that apply to the installation of any laminate floor.

a. Unroll the foam underlayment in the direction the planks will run. It usually comes in 36″ or 42″ wide rolls. Do not overlap the foam edges or adhere the foam to the floor. Tape the edges of the rolls together with duct tape.

Note: If you are putting the laminate directly on top of a concrete floor, first put down a plastic sheet to act as a vapor barrier, before putting down the foam underlay.

b. You probably will need to modify your doorframes for the height of the new laminate flooring. Check by laying a piece of the flooring on top of the underlay and see if it fits below the jamb and or casing. If not, take a piece of the flooring and lay it upside down on the sub-floor next to the frame and using a hand saw laying on the piece of laminate cut the frame so the flooring can slide under it.

c. Now as I mentioned earlier, measure across the room to determine if you need to rip the first plank. You want to end up with the pieces on the finishing side of the room approximately 2” wide minimum.

d. Beginning at the left side of the room, install the first board with the tongue side to the wall. If you do need to rip the first row of boards to width, cut the tongue side off. You need to leave a 1/4″ gap between the flooring and the wall all the way around the room to allow for minor seasonal variations in the boards themselves. So use spacers to maintain a 1/4″ gap between the flooring and the wall.

e. Cut the last piece in the first row, leaving a 1/4-inch space at the end. Use a pry bar to push the planks tightly together

f. You want to make sure that the end joints are always at least 8″ from each other. So after you lay out the first row check the cut off to start the next row but make sure it is at least 8” from the other end joint or cut it enough to get that 8” stagger. This is a great way to use up all the wastage.

g. For all subsequent rows, make sure you stagger the boards 8” so the end seams don’t line up. Join the boards together by inserting the tongue into the groove at a high angle and then pushing down. This will cause the boards to click together. Sometimes you may have to tap gently with a hammer and the tapping block to make the boards lock together. Never use a hammer directly on the pieces of laminate as you could damage the edge of a piece so badly nothing will be able to fit with it.

h. When you are working close to the wall using a pry bar helps snap the boards together.

i. Ripsaw the grove edge of the last plank 1/4 inch narrower than the remaining gap. Using the same technique as before snap and pry the pieces into place.

Note: You can cut laminate flooring with a chop saw, circular saw with a fine tooth blade or a jig saw. When using a power saw to cut the laminate place the laminate good side down, to reduce tear out on the cuts.

3 Finishing up

a. Once the floor is down, remove the spacers and reinstall your baseboards and moldings, making sure you nail them to the wall and not the laminate flooring. This will cover that 1/4-inch gap you left around the perimeter of the room. This allows the floor to expand and contract with changes in humidity.

b. You may also want to install a base shoe or quarter round on top of the laminate to cover wider gaps but do not nail through the laminate only into your baseboards.

Now step back and admire your hard work. Congratulations, the end result is a beautiful floor that is sure to add style to your home and last for many years.

Below is a video by one of the manufacturers making laminate flooring. Have a look, it really is quite good. Though the underlayment is different than I describe.

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Installing laminate flooring is a simple, straightforward process. Laminate floors are sometimes called ‘floating floors’ because they are not directly fastened (glued or nailed) to the sub-floor. Installing laminate flooring is easy for some people and hard for others. If you consider yourself a handy person, someone who can do simple carpentry, it shouldn’t be a problem.

Laminate flooring is easier to install then hardwood flooring and offers a similar appearance. The “planks” are made from medium-density fiberboard (MDF) sandwiched between plastic laminate. The top laminate looks like random-grain wood, but its plastic composition makes it scratch- and stain-resistant. They come with a click together tongue and grove or a glue together style. I recommend the click together style as it is easier to install, less messy and has no draw backs. Installing laminate flooring is a relatively easy way to add a beautiful, durable floor to your home or office.

NOTE: I do not recommend using laminate flooring in damp or potentially damp or wet places, like kitchens, bathrooms or basements (though in some basements it might be ok). This is because laminate flooring is very susceptible to moisture damage, though some might be specially treated for these locations. If the sub-floor is bare concrete and you suspect that it is or might become moist I recommend you use a different kind of flooring. You can test for humidity by taping a 24” square section of clear plastic to the concrete slab, forming an airtight seal. If condensation or discoloration appears on plastic after 24-48 hours, the moisture content is likely too high for most wood products.

You can make your house a home, stick to a budget and get a warm wood look.

Below are the essential things you’ll need to know during your laminate installation.

1. Planning and Preparation

You should make sure that you have someone to help you when you are installing laminate flooring. Though you may be able to do it yourself it is always easier with a second set of hands and more fun too.

a. Preparation is key, and its devastating to run out of material mid-job. Take the few extra minutes to prep and lay out properly, and it will save you a tremendous amount of time. Be careful not to forget to measure the closet spaces as well. It is also generally good practice to buy a 10-20 percent overage on your materials. This is done to insure that there is plenty of material in case you make a mishap, or some gets damaged. It is also a good idea to keep several pieces after the job is completed, in case anything should happen down the road and you are required to repair the floor.

b. Laminate flooring must acclimatize to your home. You do this by placing the boxes in the room where you are going to install the flooring for a minimum period of 48 hours before using it.

Tip: This is the number one mistake made by most people including contractors.

c. Plan the installation so the width of the last row will be at least 2 inches. You may need to cut the first row to width to achieve this. Also check that the wall where you begin is parallel to the wall where you will end and the room is relatively square. If the wall is not straight chalk a straight line at the edge of the first board to keep it straight.

d. Take off baseboards and moldings all around the room and remove any doors in the room.

e. Fasten down any loose or squeaking sub-floor with nails or screws and use leveling compound if you have to, to get rid of any dips in the floor.

f. If you have taken up carpet, make sure you remove any nails or tacks or the tack strip that might be left.

g. Then make sure the sub-floor is absolutely clean, even a small pebble can interfere with your flooring.

Now you are ready to install your floor.

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